Bike Quick Repair Guide: Solving 25 Headaches

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1. Every time I make up the inner tube, I just put it back and licked it.


Assuming that the hole in the inner tube is on the inside, the pad may be misplaced, causing the inner tube to be cut by spokes; assuming that there are some small and sharp foreign objects in the outer tube on the outside. Use your fingers to explore the inside of the casing and find foreign objects and take them out.


2. Frequent puncture


Give the tires a little more gas.


3. Reinstall the tire, but it cannot be loaded into the rim.


Release the air, twist it back and forth to the incorrect position, re-inflate to approximately 30 psi, and push the tire into the correct position with your bare hands. Push the tire from the middle to check if the inner tube is exposed. Make sure to re-inhale when the inner tube is fully inserted into the tire.


4. The tire patch cannot be bonded to the inner tube


Use more glue and let it dry thoroughly - about five minutes. (Do not blow with your mouth in order to do it quickly - this will leave water vapor on it, and the barrier glue will stick). When using a patch, remember to prevent contact with the adhesive surface with your fingers.


5. The wheel creaks


There may be spokes loose. Assuming tension is balanced, the sound may be caused by a subtle collision of interspersed spokes. Gently pass through a small amount and wipe off excess smooth oil.


6. There is a noise when pedaling


Tightening the crank bolts. Assuming the crank still creaks, remove it, apply a layer of grease to the core, and reinstall the crank.


7. The large toothed disc is shaking, and the chain front dial


Look for loose nails.


8. You are very bold, remove the chain and the toothed disc, clean the crankset, but now the front shift is incorrect.


You may have installed the chainring. Remove the chainring and install it properly. Usually, the crank bolts fit exactly into the mounting holes of the chainring. From the top, make sure the spacing between the sprocket wheels is equal.


9. You tried to remove the nail, but it turned with


Fix it in the groove on the reverse side of the disc with a wider one-word screwdriver or special disc nail tool.


10. You tried to disassemble or condition the crank, but it was slippery - it can't be removed now.


Go for a few more rides around the week. The crank will be loose and then it will be removed.


11. Shift line touch frame, wear off a piece of paint


Apply scotch tape to the center of the contact.


12. After conditioning, it still can't improve the noise and shifting problems.


The flywheel lock ring may be loose, causing the flywheel to spin slightly and make a sound. You need a special tool to fully tighten the lock ring, but you can tighten your fingers as much as possible to ensure that you can ride home safely or ride to the nearest car shop.


13. The flywheel is rusted


A small amount of rust does not accelerate the wear of the flywheel, so there is no need to worry too much. Usually, a little more smooth oil can be used to prevent further rust, and the chain will wear away when it is worn.


14. When using certain gear ratios, pedaling presents a tooth skipping


There may be something between the flywheel pieces. Suppose you can see mud, weeds, leaves, branches or any foreign objects stuck in the flywheel and dug them out. These obstacle chains are normally engaged with the flywheel. Assuming there is nothing, this flywheel piece may have worn out. This phenomenon is usually indicated by the need to change the chain and the flywheel.


15. The front dial cannot be accurately transferred to a toothed disc


Check to see if the guide can be parallel to the chainring (viewed from directly above) and loosen and reposition the front dial as appropriate. Assuming parallel, you may need to adjust the high/low limit screws, preferably by the car store or someone with experience.


16. After the dial continues to make a sharp noise


The guide wheel is short of oil and the demand is smooth. Smooth from the side and wipe off excess smooth oil.


17. The brakes feel weak, although the brake blocks do not need to be changed.


The brake line may be long. Turn the brake trimmer nut counterclockwise (normally at the brake caliper or brake handle, near the end of the brake line) to bring the brake block closer to the rim. Stop conditioning according to your habits.


18. There is a drag on the brakes


The brake faces of the rim may have grooves or small pits. Every turn hits the brake block, which makes people feel uneasy. Take the car to the car shop.


19. One side brake block, rim or close


Before you play with the brakes, flip the wheel to remove the wheel and correct the wheel to see if it can handle the problem (this is the most common treatment.) Assume that the wheel is very positive, but one side of the brake block is still rim, you need to adjust brake. Most of today's brakes are conditioned by a conditioning screw on the side of the caliper or on the top (there is a conditioning screw on each side.) A small amount of conditioning screw to see if it can affect the position of the brake block. Assume that the brake is at the center of the wheel, but the brake block is still smashing the rim, which may be caused by the previous misalignment and the wear on both sides; the brake is smoothed and recalibrated.


20. Every time I step on it, there is a sound coming from the seat.


The seat may be loose. Tightening.


21. Squeak when braking


Wipe off any oil or cleaning agent left on the rim. Assume that the brake block is sanded with a sandpaper or a trowel. Is there noise? It is necessary to loosen the brake block and adjust the toe-in, that is, let the front half of the brake block first contact the rim. This is a very simple matter about the car shop, and the newbie may have to spend some time.


22. The seat creaks


A small amount of smooth oil is dripped into the position where the rails engage the seat cushion and the seatpost. For retro lovers, please note: Leather seats sometimes break like leather shoes. There is nothing that can be done in this situation.


23. You can’t remember the direction of the disassembly and assembly.


The right foot is normally tightened to the right and released to the left (clockwise tightening, counterclockwise loosening). The left foot thread is reversed (to prevent the pedal from forming a loose buckle), so tighten it counterclockwise and loosen it clockwise. Suppose you're confused - many people can't tell - just remember: backwards. Let you remember that when you remove the pedal, the wrench always applies backwards.


24. You put your foot on the left and right.


You can remove the pedal, but you may have to change the crank; the crank thread is softer than the pedal and is easily destroyed. Be sure to check the threads before installing the pedals. Usually the word "R" or "L" on the axis of the pedal represents "right" or "left".


25. You remove the bowl and it is smooth. No matter how you adjust it, the bowl is very tight.


The bearing retainer may be reversed.


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